Opening of the long-awaited Pavyllon Monte-Carlo, a restaurant by Yannick Alléno, located in the very chic and discreet Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo (which insiders like to call « hotel for connoisseurs »): the new address which is likely to to shake up the beautiful Monegasque gastronomic scene.
Last week the inauguration of Pavyllon Monte-Carlo took place in the presence of Chef Yannick Alléno and his executive chef on site Guillaume Bellayer; both have orchestrated a menu designed for the occasion, taking up the main dishes from the new menu. The multi-starred chef has captivated the Monegasque, local and Parisian press with his « unintellectualized, generous and convivial » cuisine without complex that goes straight to the point. Produces worked in a magnificent simplicity are precisely struck and seasoned in perfection.
The superb counter, with endless azure shades of its elegant elliptical shape, echoes the unforgettable view that is an integral part of the premises. The decoration, signed Chahan Minassia, has the spirit and soft warmth of a private residence.
Comfortably installed at this counter of life and delights, you are both spectator and privileged actor of this multidimensional representation of a kitchen that becomes a living theater with dizzying precision. The chefs, the brigade, the service, all “play” this act with great attention and serenity, magically releasing exchange and conviviality. The discussions spin happily from left to right in complete complicity with your neighbours, the teams and the cooks who finalize the plates in front of you while declaiming their creations with modesty.
We can only think of the Ateliers of the great Joël Robuchon, who was the first to bring out the kitchens to stage them and to desacralize the standards of classic catering. Pavyllon is a perfect tribute to it in a current version of a totally accomplished experience.
The buckwheat tartlet, sake cream, pike roe and parmesan made their debut and the barbajuans with marjoram flower and nettle gel (a delicious tradition in the Principality where each establishment offers its own version) follow closely this raising of the curtain of flavors.
Tsar Balik Salmon, fresh tartare on crispy potatoes, green sauce and condiments, this delicate starter perfectly sets up the appetite with the imperial salmon from the waters of the icy purity of the Norwegian fjords, and smoked in the tradition of high precision . This gives the flesh a « meat » texture and a unique flavor in balance of salt and fine smoke. The fat of the salmon is here plumped up with lemon and fennel gel, mustard seeds worked into pickles deliver a vinegary and slamming dimension in the mouth. The greenery sauce brings together its freshness, like a mayonnaise of aromatic herbs (basil, parsley, tarragon, lovage). The potato is a wafer of crisps.
Seabass and beef, praise of raw French Osciètre caviar crispy and condiments takes you to an incredible dimension of excellence. From the first bite, your gaze turns to your neighbor who doesn’t say a word, but nods jubilantly. The fine slices of the just-seasoned sea bass collide with the gourmet and soft beef tartare, the caviar subtly comes to sign off the whole with iodine in perfection.
Mesclun salad Monte-Carlo style, backyard vegetables, flies away in the high spheres. A salad that seems so simple but is not. It reveals itself to be lively and punched in depth with an elderflower vinaigrette, marigold oil and vanilla seeds. Vegetables from the garden (trumpet zucchini, green asparagus, peas and mini fennel) are a real croque en bouche. The viennese parmesan cheese is a surprise and a delight at the bottom of the plate.
The Badaboum style Egg with caviar, poached, smoked cold cream, toasted bread, bears its name so well when tasted that your heart goes boom. The egg, cut in front of you by the chef, pours out pleasure on your plate, the caviar, as an insert, is released tenderly enveloped by the yolk. You feel rising in you this instinct of no longer being able to control yourself from waiting any longer and there you are, biting with delight in this almost indecent bite of « umami » pleasures, the crispy eel fat dip « agraves » your wonderful condition. The sorrel comes to titillate you with its perfect acidity: a vibrant tribute to the Frères Troisgros.
Langoustine ravioli, marked with herbs, basil leaf fondue is a moving and intense treat, the langoustine retains all its veracity and the kaffir lime in balance is a refined revealer. This ravioli, with a dough transparent like fine Limoges China with incredible finesse, is playing light and shadow of its ingredients, like a sublime « Dim Sum ». The fondue of basil completes the whole thing.
Roasted red mullet, in crispy zucchini leaf, tomato, Mango and saffron fondue. The red mullet, marinated in smoked paprika oil and candied lemon juice, is certainly vibrating with iodine from its sublime cooking, the crispy filigree courgette leaf brings a delightful texture. The dapper and velvety white butter sauce with mango and saffron is shaped by the crushed tomatoes. It is simply sublime.
Millefeuille layering of Wagyu beef with Paris mushrooms, capers and mushroom juice, is one of those unforgettable dishes that remain forever etched in your taste memory. The grade 4 Wagyu beef from Kyoto district is expertly mounted sheet by sheet, with fine strips of meat interspersed with button mushrooms which, when cooked, take on the noble fat of this unique piece . The cut is dizzying with these slices which open up like a range of flavors and reveal the prodigious cooking. The parsley puree and meat jus, celery and caper extraction combine with passion to wonderfully energize the palate. The peas play their slamming and springtime score and are numbed with emulsified lemon-flavoured Beurre-Blanc. The counter of gourmets present that day vibrated unanimously with this forever suspended moment. A real standing ovation from the senses.
The symphony of sweets is signed by pastry chef Maxime Vaslin and his team, the Crispy Feuillantine, almond ice cream, candied wild strawberries with elderberry is reminiscent of the baker’s small Palmier biscuit devoured like a rewarding snack after a day of classes. Wild strawberries pair perfectly with whipped Fontainebleau and sugar-free peanut pralines, the whole thing works with infinite delicacy.
The fine pastry tart, chocolate fondant, cooked to order is a real dark chocolate delicacy that leaves no one indifferent with both lightness and power at the same time. The quartet of textures: soufflé, crispy, creamy and powdery are striking.
The service, under the leadership of its young director Nicolas Gandillet, is brilliantly warm and lively, in line with elegance and professionalism.
The wine cellar is a judicious selection of references and recognized winegrowers, for a discerning local and international clientele.
Yannick Alléno, leader and instigator of Modern Cuisine, sublimates the DNA and heritage of French cuisine through his innovative techniques, such as extraction, fermentation or maturation. He transmits to his collaborators his sense of hospitality with simplicity and generosity while sharing his experience and his vision on the gastronomy of tomorrow through his manifesto published in 2021: “Everything must change! What service for Le Grand Restaurant? » . The same year, he also revolutionized the world of chocolate by opening a first boutique “Alléno & Rivoire, Chocolatiers since 2021” in partnership with his former Pastry Chef Aurélien Rivoire.
To achieve the Alléno signature and excellence, the kitchen and dining room teams of the Hotel Hermitage trained and shared for several weeks with those of Pavyllon Paris and Ledoyen Paris.
Pavyllon Monte-Carlo is truly an experience of gastronomy, of life in great modernity, revisiting the codes with evidence, never forgetting the essential: emotion.
Lunch Menu in 3 Acts €68 – Monte-Carlo Menu in 5 Acts €145 – Hermitage Menu in 7 Acts €235
Appetizers €23 to €88 – Dishes €41 to €108 – Desserts €22 to €28
Square Beaumarchais – 98000 Monaco
+377 98 06 98 98